VINHO VERDE

 

Vinhos Borges Gatão Vinho Verde, NV

Made by the Borges cooperative since the early 1900's, Gatão was originally named after the tiny town where it was first produced.  As the popularity of the brand increased and production demands forced the winery to source grapes from a larger area, the Vinho Verde commission enocouraged Borges to assume instead the "Large Cat" as their mascot so as to avoid misrepresenting the origins of the wine.   This large cat has graced their labels ever since (although originally the cat was more of a Puss in Boots type.)  Gatão is one of the most successful brands of Vinho Verde in the world today, distributed in 50 countries on 5 continents.   

Grape Varieties: Azal, Pedernã, Trajadura, Avesso and Loureiro 

 I always describe Gatão as a wine Margarita.  It really captures that Sweet and Sour balance, never too sweet and always with plenty of attack and tang.   It clocks in at 9%  alcohol and sells so briskly, you are almost guaranteed to find a fresh bottle!

Vinhos Messias "Santola" Vinho Verde, NV

The excellent Santola bottling by Vinhos Messias was recently recommended in the Washington Post.  The review said the wine tasted "a bit like Sprite."   I can see where they're coming from,  the Santola is really limey and of course has a bit of bubble.   But we have to take a little issue with that.  I don't think Dave Mcintyre has been driven by thirst at a kid's birthday party to tip a 2 Liter of Sprite in a while, because let me tell you, that stuff is sickeningly sweet!  The Santola on the other hand is on the drier side for Vinho Verde, and the bright acidity will refresh not cloy.  Here's what I get:

 On the nose: Fresh lime, lemon, freshly grated lemon zest, lime leaf, white pepper, basil and whiff of salty sea air. 

On the palate:  More freshly squeezed lemon and lime, a juicy mid palate of granny smith apple, the wine is squeaky clean and only prickly with a mouthwatering profile that finishes with a kiss of salt.

 

Anjos Vinho Verde 2011

 Made by the fine Quinta da Lixa estate in the Sousa subregion, the Anjos Vinho Verde consists of 40% Arinto, 30% Trajadura, and 30% Loureiro.  Imported by our good friends Wine in- Motion, this is a really quality wine for the money.  A much riper and gently sweeter style, it also has a little more bubble and an all around softer attack.  I almost wonder if they do a little partial malolactic on this one?  I get:

On the nose:  Powdery white flowers, wild yeasts, plantain, white pepper and pineapple.

On the palate:  Pineapple, apricot, fleshy sweet peaches, peach pit, mandarin orange and a long tangy and sweet finish of tropical lifesavers-orange, lime and lemon.

 

Broadbent Vinho Verde NV

Varieties - Loureiro 50%, Trajadura 40%, Pedernã (Arinto)10%

An excellent export brand made by Importer Bartholomew Broadbent, Broadbent Vinho Verde is as fresh as a daisy (or maybe a sunflower.)   The fruit here manages to be bright and penetrating without too much of a bite and the sweetness is just barely noticeable.  Melon, lime peel, lime leaves and green apple bob for attention on a light bubble.  9% ABV

 

Quinta de Gomariz Loureiro Colheita Seleccionada 2011 

On the nose:  powdered sugar, peach..almost Moscato d'Asti-ish until the uber herbal component of Loureiro rules the nose in the end here.   The hallmark of the varietal is bay leaf (laurel) but I am often reminded of other sweetly ripe and aromatic herbs like Basil, Cilantro, Lemongrass and Lime leaf.   This is a great opportunity to take note of the varietal.  

 On the palate: Intense ripe peaches and apricots with a balancing cilantro and lime element playing in the background.  It is just 11.5 ABV, not a fully dry wine, and still perceptibly bubbly.   Its splitting hairs a bit to justify the jump in price from the Broadbent to this style of Loureiro, but for the discerning Vinho Verde palate this is juicy, herbal, tangy and peachy... bring on the delights of Thai salad, Vietnamese Bun, or Ceviche.

 

  "Twin Vines" JM Fonseca 2010-7/6/12

Bringing up the rear so far is this very popular export bottling from the famous house of Jose Maria Da Fonseca...famous it should be noted, not for their Vinho Verde which only hit the American market a few years ago and does not, I believe, exist in Portugal.  (Please correct me if I'm wrong.)  The nose is filled with sulphur that lifts occasionally like fog to reveal powdered sugar and cabbage.  Almost as bubbly as a prosecco and utterly lacking in character, this very sweet bottling manages to also have an unpleasantly bitter herbal note on the souring apple finish.  Sorry folks but...YUCK!  I'm going to hope this was a bad bottle but at this time, I can not recommend.  I'll look out for a 2011 and repost.

 

Aveleda "Casal Garcia" Vinho Verde 2011

Varieties - Trajadura, Loureiro, Arinto, Azal

One of the classics, Casal Garcia is the second oldest brand of Vinho Verde after Gatão, dating all the way back to 1940.  The history of Quinta da Aveleda goes back even further, some 300 years.  Like Gatão, the wine was named for the area where it was originally produced and the traditional label bears the Guedes family crest.

Aromas of salt, green apple, white pepper, green melon and peaches.

The palate is very mild, showing plenty of apple, melon and peach fruit on a medium bubble.  Could use a bit more cut and citrus for my taste, but I have a feeling the mellow, middle of the road character of this bottle may be the key to its broad appeal.  Very tasty and paired brilliantly with Thai Nam Tok.  10% ABV