Vini Portugal 2011-Part 1

  A belated snapshot of the 7th Annual Vini Portugal Grand Tasting- April 4 2011 @ Lincoln Center NYC. 

Because it was so much fun and so informative to taste the wines of Luis Pato with the Duck himself-I'll save him for Part 2! 

The trend towards single variety wines is alive and well.  There were many fine Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz bottlings.   And one of these, was my #2 wine of the tasting-the Quinta do Vallado Touriga Nacional 2008.  With a 95 point rating from the Wine Spectator(the 2007 received a 94) the 2008 vintage is giving no ground to 2007, and is clearing the bases with this and other out of the park wines.  Here's Kim Marcus note in The Wine Spectator, "boasting medium-grained tannins that support the dense plum and berry flavors, which feature plenty of ferrous, minerally notes. Mocha and spice linger on the long finish. Very well-crafted, finely balanced and pure-tasting. Needs time in the cellar. Best from 2012 through 2020. 2,188 cases made. –KM"   I actually found the wine incredibly approachable for its youth and size.  Unlike previous vintages, the floral/dried red fruit/tobacco aromatics were not buried in new oak.  This was true for the Reserva as well, and a quick visit to the wineries production notes makes it clear this is quite intentional. "After malolactic fermentation took place (in the original stainless steel tanks), the wine was racked to 225 litre French Oak barriques, where it stayed for 16 months.  Fifty percent of these were new, and the remaining were used one- and two-year old barriques so that the Touriga Nacional aromas were not overcome by oak."   In the Douro, many producers seem to have taken the criticism of over-oaking to heart-and are crafting fresh, aromatic wines that don't sacrifice varietal character to make massive dark smoke and vanilla monsters.  I frequently recommend (and personally prefer) the 2'd and 3'd wines over the top Douro bottlings-precisely because they have typically had more fragrance, charm, typicity and accessibility.  If this trend in the top wines continues, we may have to start springing for the Big boys!

The Vallado Reserve Field Blend 2008(94 pts Wine Spectator) is a great example of another notable trend, the old vine field blend is being suddenly and loudly proclaimed.   From the production notes, "More than 20 grape varieties (a field blend) including Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela and Touriga Franca and others, with 65% from vineyards older than 80 years."  This is not so much a new practice as a new focus and approach to marketing-sort of like when Mama Rose finally throws Louise out on stage to become Gypsy Rose Lee.  These tangled old bush vines have been laboring in the background all along, and are finally getting the push they needed to claim the spotlight.   All of these developments find the Douro steaming down the track towards carving a modern identity that preserves their unique heritage in terms of both grape varieties and terroir.

Beira Interior

Stepping in to fill the white wine vacuum created by the missing Vinho Verde producers(who held there own seminar and tasting last month) were the surprisingly wonderful whites of the little known Beira Interior.  This old region to the east of the Dao is known mostly for cooperative bottlings of the local Siria grape (Roupeiro).  Two fantastic bottlings by the Quinta dos Currais, a 100% Siria and a blend of Siria, Arinto and Fonte Cal were equally intriguing and a first rate introduction to the region.  Singled out by both Jamie Goode and Sarah Ahmed for selection in the annual 50 great wines of Portugal tasting held in England, Qta Currais is a 130 hectare property owned by third generation winemakers.    The Siria was perfumed-light bodied but relatively ripe and spicy.  The blend was an entirely different animal, with real weight and depth, and lots of green melon and ripe pear fruit. The wine sees no oak but has a smokey/flinty character which the winery asserts is due to the Fonte Cal grape variety-no aka so far... and no US importer.

Another standout white came from leading Alentejo producer Cortes de Cima.  Their lovely Chamine white blend 2010 is an interesting combo of Antao Vaz, Viognier, Verdelho and Sauvignon Blanc-  complex without seeming contrived and incredibly zingy and fresh.  The Chamine red is a treat as well-with a light and refined/ elegant feel that is the envy of many a fat and clumsy Aragonez/Castelao blend.  Chamine just makes it look easy.   The whole line is so solid, it is no wonder that this winery commands the position it does in the market.

For value, I was bowled over all over again by the top to bottom quality of the Carmim Winery.  At dizzying production levels(5 million cases in the case of the Carmim Terras del Rei) this Alentejo cooperative in Monsarraz pulls off an incredible range of styles and flavors-from the exuberantly fruity(if a tad simple) field blend Terras del Rei-to the earthier/juicier Reguengos, to the sleek Monsarraz with more black fruit and muscle.  They even have some thoroughly believable reserves, and although in the premium price range-they still outdistance the competition in the quality/value department.

Some interesting bubblies are being made in the Bairrada region, mostly from Bical.  Although my favorites were a couple of Blanc de Noir traditional method wines from the infamously tricky Baga variety.  One of these was the Caves de Solar de Sao Domingos Baga Bruto 2006.  Sao Domingos is an operation founded in 1937 and models itself on the French Champagne houses, producing a full range of styles.  At increasing levels of sweetness, the traditional Bical/Maria Gomes  blends (Bairrada Brut, Meio-Seco, and a Dolce) had  fine mousse and plenty of yeasty notes, although the Meio-Seco was plagued by an unfortunate tired/musty note.  The Baga bottlings on the other hand, were clean, complex and vibrant.  And for fans of Sparkling Shiraz, there is a sparkling Baga/Touriga Nacional "Bruto Tinto"-full bodied, dry and full of spicy red fruit and bubbles.  I never know quite what to make of these things, but I expect (and the Aussies affirm) if presented a glass at a Barbecue on a 90 degree day-it would be just the ticket!  The king of Bairrada bubbly is of course Luis Pato...so for my favorite Blanc de Noir as well as my wine of the tasting, you'll have to come back for part 2!