A Sort of Homecoming, by Arthur Lampros

Stelios Boutaris and Arthur Lampros, Photo Arthur Lampros

I am very pleased to share with you a guest post by Arthur Lampros,"Co-Owner & Resident Wine Guy, Winestyles of Montclair."   Arthur is the General Manager/Sommelier of Prince William County's most popular Greek/Italian Bistro Giorgio's where his brother Michael is the Chef.  In 2008 they launched the Winestyles of Montclair Wine shop and Wine Bar next door, featuring a Bistro menu by Chef Mike.   Already the place to be in Montclair as their throngs of regulars and wine club members will attest, the secret is out, and they have begun to lure diners and wine enthusiasts from all over the DC Metro area.

Giorgio's Family Restaurant/Wine Styles of Montclair

4394 Kevin Walker Drive  Montclair, VA 22026 

703-583-WINE (9463) 

http://www.winestyles.net/montclair

http://giorgiosfamilyrestaurant.com/index.html

Kir Yianni Watch Tower-Photo Arthur Lampros

 

A Sort of Homecoming

Exploring the New Face of Greek Wines

by Arthur Lampros, 

Co-Owner & Resident Wine Guy, Winestyles of Montclair

A few weeks ago, Chef Mike and I were fortunate enough to travel to our "homeland” Greece to participate in a very special wine tour featuring four of the country's premier Wineries. The purpose of this trip was to discover, meet and learn first-hand, the wines of a country that has been making wine for thousands of years, but has continually fallen victim to misperception, ignorance, and up till recently, minimal exposure in the US wine market. But the tide has been turning lately with a growing wave of prominent wine journalists, chefs, and wine "intelligentsia” modestly buzzing about the hidden gems of the Mediterranean. We were accompanied by other wine professionals, restaurateurs, and sommeliers who, admittedly, held a minimal understanding of Greek wines and were eager to decipher the fuss.

Our journey took us to Northern Greece and the mountainous region of Naoussa, then south over the Gulf of Corinth into the Peloponnese Peninsula to the wine regions of Mantinia and Nemea, and finally to the idyllic yet cosmopolitan island of Paros in the Cyclades of the Aegean Sea. In each of these regions we were invited to visit wineries, winemakers, and people of the region in exclusive and intimate settings. The group was given free access to the vineyards, operations, and production facilities, and it was not disappointing. The consensus among us was one of immediate familiarity with the management of the vines and the state of the art wine "making”. We had seen this all before. Facilities were modern, the winemakers experienced and talented, and the management savvy and sharp. You could, (un)theoretically, pick up these wineries and plop them down in the middle of Napa or Sonoma and they would blend in seamlessly. Sort of.

But the real magic of the trip was, quite simply, the wine. Exploring a new wine region is in and of itself very exciting, but for me it cemented my appreciation for what my heritage had for sale. We tasted a lot of wine over a few short days…….A LOT. Most great, a few crap, but some just downright thrilling.

The main objective of the group was to discover the main varietals that are indigenous to Greek soils. Among the whites, we had the Moschofilero (mos-ko-fee-le-ro), and Assyrtico (aahs-ear-ti-ko), and in reds we had Xinomavro (zi-no-mauve-row), and Agiorgitiko (ah-gi-or-gi-ti-ko) (aka St. George). Yes, yes, I hear you…. "sounds Greek to me”, eh? Haha. But how many of you can flawlessly pronounce Barbaresco, Aglianico, Gewurztraminer, Semillon, Mourvedre, Valpolicella, etc……? See my point?

These varietals are merely a few experiences away from being recognizable and easily a part of your wine vocabulary. No excuses. While there are other native varietals being grown in Greece (try 300+), the Greek wine industry has come to an understanding that you must walk before you run. In essence, keep it (relatively) simple. Focus on your main stars and the interest will grow from there.

The flavors of these wines continuously kept us in discussion. There was something in these varietals that was very, very comfortable. They reminded us of a wide range of "other” grapes with which we have had some experience. Grapes like Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Gris (for whites), Nebbiolo, Merlot, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon (for reds), were continuously thrown into the argument.

The instinct here was to try and find a point of reference that our little wine brains could understand, but we were thwarted at each turn. These wines tasted like wines we have had before, but at the same time they were completely different and unique. Yiannis Tselepos, owner and winemaker from Tselepos Winery said it best when we were sitting in his cellar, squabbling over the international varietals that this or that wine tasted like. 

 "My friends,” he said as he silenced us with a wave of his hand, "this wine does not taste like this or that. This wine tastes like this place. It is singular. It does not want to taste like anything else. Respect that and you will no longer be confused.”  Nicely said, Yiannis.

In fact, I (we) spent the rest of our trip trying to get comfortable with this idea and it soon became apparent that the more I resisted the urge to frame the wine, the more I was able to appreciate it for what it really was, unique and utterly satisfying. This is not to say that we weren't annoyingly inquisitive and critical of the wines. I tried to restrain my affection for these wines lest I violate some sort of dutiful responsibility I have for my profession.

The winemakers got plenty of questions into their use of oak (or not), the specific geographical positioning of the vineyards, the use of irrigation (or mostly none), and their specific strategies in winemaking. Personally, I found this sort of inquisition very satisfying in that these wines were given the appropriate attention in an honest and open forum by knowledgeable professionals who really wanted to know these wines and this country.

But beyond that, it's important that we be honest here. Inside the poised and demanding minds of these wine professionals and restaurateurs was the dangling fruit (ahem) that is ultimately known as the bottom line. Would these wines sell in our stores & restaurants? I seem to think so. There's no reason why they shouldn't. The wines are exciting, priced right for their quality, and fill a distinct void facing the growing swell of wine aficionados in our country; specifically, the thirst for something new, something distinctive, and something honest.

My hope is that the Greek wine industry continues down this path of high quality winemaking, but that's the easy part. More importantly, and ultimately more difficult, is the goal of building momentum in the external markets and promoting the unique character of these wines. I'm ready to support these wines and make them household names in my market. I've been selling Greek wines in my restaurant and wine shop for years, but this here, is the beginning of my new adventure. I hope you'll join me.
The four wineries we visited were as follows;

Kir-Yianni Winery in Naoussa, Northern Greece

Kir Yianni 2001 Ramnista Xinomavro, Photo Arthur Lampros

 

Stelios Boutaris hails from a family steeped in the wine industry in Greece. The Boutari name is as recognizable in the Greek lexicon as the Mondavi name is in California. His individual venture, however, in Kir-Yianni (named after his father Mr. Yiannis Boutaris) is sure to find its way to the world stage. His focus is on the indigenous Xinomavro grape, but is continuously discovering the ability of his land to produced international varietals as well. At dinner, Stelios opened up a Jeroboam (3L) of "the very best wine I have ever made”, his 2001 Ramnista Xinomavro. Truly Memorable.


 

Tselepos Winery, Mantinia, Peloponnese

Tselepos Vineyards, Photo Arhur Lampros

 

Yiannis Tselepos studied oenology at the University of Dijon and graduated in 1979. After working for two years in the wineries of Burgundy, he settled in Mantinia in 1981, and has been making wines from the areas grapes since. A gregarious figure, he is firmly committed to traditional winemaking techniques. When asked about irrigating his vineyards, he said "whoever irrigates their grapes cannot make wine that expresses the terroir”. A bold statement that I'm not convinced is entirely true, but I can see where he's coming from. Easily the most intriguing personality we met on the trip. His Amalia Brut, a Methode Champenoise sparkler named after his wife and made with Moschofilero was a real highlight.

Semeli Winery, Nemea, Peloponnese

A stunning winery situated high atop the hills of Koutsi, Nemea in the heartland of Greek wine country. The leadership of this special winery has undertaken a serious look at the importance of modern winemaking techniques and are leading the effort to produce wines that might re-define the industry. Semeli's Commercial Director, and host par excellence, Manolis Giamniadakis told us of a current venture in to the Chinese market. Aggressive and un-traditional moves like this are surely an indication of their commitment to raising awareness of the Greek brand in more than the traditional markets. I eagerly await their next steps.

Moraitis Winery, The Island of Paros, Aegean Sea 

Moraitis Winery, Photo Arthur Lampros

 A family run operation of the finest order, the Moraitis winery has been making some of the most intriguingly beautiful wine in the country since 1910. Led by 3rd generation patriarch, Manolis Moraitis, the winery is supported by sons Theo and Savvas. This winery is exceptional in that it is situated in a dry and mostly arid island in the sun drenched Aegean Sea with absolutely no rainfall from May through the end of September. Most of the varietals and wines that the family produces are unique to the island, prompting me to question the purpose of even going there. I mean, the experience wouldn't exactly fit the central goal of highlighting the "main four” grapes. But I received my answer quickly and humbly; to miss out on such a treasure would certainly have been a shame. The star of the show, and I believe, the reason for our visit is their simply named, yet elegantly complex red, the Moraitis Reserve Red. A blend of the deep red Mandilaria and the aromatic white Monemvassia, the wine was co-fermented and aged for three years (two in French oak barrels, one in bottle) before release. During our tasting, Theo was kind enough to open a 1997 Reserve Red from his cellar, and we were treated to a wine that maintained its character, showed deep maturity, and plainly told us that it had the ability to go the distance.
Worth. Every. Minute.

Arthur Lampros