Vergisson

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Wednesday, July 25, 2012

A Sort of Homecoming, by Arthur Lampros


Stelios Boutaris and Arthur Lampros, Photo Arthur Lampros
I am very pleased to share with you a guest post by Arthur Lampros,"Co-Owner & Resident Wine Guy, Winestyles of Montclair."   Arthur is the General Manager/Sommelier of Prince William County's most popular Greek/Italian Bistro Giorgio's where his brother Michael is the Chef.  In 2008 they launched the Winestyles of Montclair Wine shop and Wine Bar next door, featuring a Bistro menu by Chef Mike.   Already the place to be in Montclair as their throngs of regulars and wine club members will attest, the secret is out, and they have begun to lure diners and wine enthusiasts from all over the DC Metro area.










Giorgio's Family Restaurant/Wine Styles of Montclair
4394 Kevin Walker Drive  Montclair, VA 22026 
703-583-WINE (9463) 


http://www.winestyles.net/montclair

http://giorgiosfamilyrestaurant.com/index.html






Kir Yianni Watch Tower-Photo Arthur Lampros

 

A Sort of Homecoming


Exploring the New Face of Greek Wines


by Arthur Lampros, 

Co-Owner & Resident Wine Guy, Winestyles of Montclair


A few weeks ago, Chef Mike and I were fortunate enough to travel to our "homeland” Greece to participate in a very special wine tour featuring four of the country's premier Wineries. The purpose of this trip was to discover, meet and learn first-hand, the wines of a country that has been making wine for thousands of years, but has continually fallen victim to misperception, ignorance, and up till recently, minimal exposure in the US wine market. But the tide has been turning lately with a growing wave of prominent wine journalists, chefs, and wine "intelligentsia” modestly buzzing about the hidden gems of the Mediterranean. We were accompanied by other wine professionals, restaurateurs, and sommeliers who, admittedly, held a minimal understanding of Greek wines and were eager to decipher the fuss.

Our journey took us to Northern Greece and the mountainous region of Naoussa, then south over the Gulf of Corinth into the Peloponnese Peninsula to the wine regions of Mantinia and Nemea, and finally to the idyllic yet cosmopolitan island of Paros in the Cyclades of the Aegean Sea. In each of these regions we were invited to visit wineries, winemakers, and people of the region in exclusive and intimate settings. The group was given free access to the vineyards, operations, and production facilities, and it was not disappointing. The consensus among us was one of immediate familiarity with the management of the vines and the state of the art wine "making”. We had seen this all before. Facilities were modern, the winemakers experienced and talented, and the management savvy and sharp. You could, (un)theoretically, pick up these wineries and plop them down in the middle of Napa or Sonoma and they would blend in seamlessly. Sort of.

But the real magic of the trip was, quite simply, the wine. Exploring a new wine region is in and of itself very exciting, but for me it cemented my appreciation for what my heritage had for sale. We tasted a lot of wine over a few short days…….A LOT. Most great, a few crap, but some just downright thrilling.

The main objective of the group was to discover the main varietals that are indigenous to Greek soils. Among the whites, we had the Moschofilero (mos-ko-fee-le-ro), and Assyrtico (aahs-ear-ti-ko), and in reds we had Xinomavro (zi-no-mauve-row), and Agiorgitiko (ah-gi-or-gi-ti-ko) (aka St. George). Yes, yes, I hear you…. "sounds Greek to me”, eh? Haha. But how many of you can flawlessly pronounce Barbaresco, Aglianico, Gewurztraminer, Semillon, Mourvedre, Valpolicella, etc……? See my point?

These varietals are merely a few experiences away from being recognizable and easily a part of your wine vocabulary. No excuses. While there are other native varietals being grown in Greece (try 300+), the Greek wine industry has come to an understanding that you must walk before you run. In essence, keep it (relatively) simple. Focus on your main stars and the interest will grow from there.

The flavors of these wines continuously kept us in discussion. There was something in these varietals that was very, very comfortable. They reminded us of a wide range of "other” grapes with which we have had some experience. Grapes like Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Gris (for whites), Nebbiolo, Merlot, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon (for reds), were continuously thrown into the argument.

The instinct here was to try and find a point of reference that our little wine brains could understand, but we were thwarted at each turn. These wines tasted like wines we have had before, but at the same time they were completely different and unique. Yiannis Tselepos, owner and winemaker from Tselepos Winery said it best when we were sitting in his cellar, squabbling over the international varietals that this or that wine tasted like. 


 "My friends,” he said as he silenced us with a wave of his hand, "this wine does not taste like this or that. This wine tastes like this place. It is singular. It does not want to taste like anything else. Respect that and you will no longer be confused.”  Nicely said, Yiannis.

In fact, I (we) spent the rest of our trip trying to get comfortable with this idea and it soon became apparent that the more I resisted the urge to frame the wine, the more I was able to appreciate it for what it really was, unique and utterly satisfying. This is not to say that we weren't annoyingly inquisitive and critical of the wines. I tried to restrain my affection for these wines lest I violate some sort of dutiful responsibility I have for my profession.

The winemakers got plenty of questions into their use of oak (or not), the specific geographical positioning of the vineyards, the use of irrigation (or mostly none), and their specific strategies in winemaking. Personally, I found this sort of inquisition very satisfying in that these wines were given the appropriate attention in an honest and open forum by knowledgeable professionals who really wanted to know these wines and this country.

But beyond that, it's important that we be honest here. Inside the poised and demanding minds of these wine professionals and restaurateurs was the dangling fruit (ahem) that is ultimately known as the bottom line. Would these wines sell in our stores & restaurants? I seem to think so. There's no reason why they shouldn't. The wines are exciting, priced right for their quality, and fill a distinct void facing the growing swell of wine aficionados in our country; specifically, the thirst for something new, something distinctive, and something honest.

My hope is that the Greek wine industry continues down this path of high quality winemaking, but that's the easy part. More importantly, and ultimately more difficult, is the goal of building momentum in the external markets and promoting the unique character of these wines. I'm ready to support these wines and make them household names in my market. I've been selling Greek wines in my restaurant and wine shop for years, but this here, is the beginning of my new adventure. I hope you'll join me.
The four wineries we visited were as follows;

Kir-Yianni Winery in Naoussa, Northern Greece

Kir Yianni 2001 Ramnista Xinomavro, Photo Arthur Lampros
 

Stelios Boutaris hails from a family steeped in the wine industry in Greece. The Boutari name is as recognizable in the Greek lexicon as the Mondavi name is in California. His individual venture, however, in Kir-Yianni (named after his father Mr. Yiannis Boutaris) is sure to find its way to the world stage. His focus is on the indigenous Xinomavro grape, but is continuously discovering the ability of his land to produced international varietals as well. At dinner, Stelios opened up a Jeroboam (3L) of "the very best wine I have ever made”, his 2001 Ramnista Xinomavro. Truly Memorable.


 

Tselepos Winery, Mantinia, Peloponnese
Tselepos Vineyards, Photo Arhur Lampros
 

Yiannis Tselepos studied oenology at the University of Dijon and graduated in 1979. After working for two years in the wineries of Burgundy, he settled in Mantinia in 1981, and has been making wines from the areas grapes since. A gregarious figure, he is firmly committed to traditional winemaking techniques. When asked about irrigating his vineyards, he said "whoever irrigates their grapes cannot make wine that expresses the terroir”. A bold statement that I'm not convinced is entirely true, but I can see where he's coming from. Easily the most intriguing personality we met on the trip. His Amalia Brut, a Methode Champenoise sparkler named after his wife and made with Moschofilero was a real highlight.

Semeli Winery, Nemea, Peloponnese

A stunning winery situated high atop the hills of Koutsi, Nemea in the heartland of Greek wine country. The leadership of this special winery has undertaken a serious look at the importance of modern winemaking techniques and are leading the effort to produce wines that might re-define the industry. Semeli's Commercial Director, and host par excellence, Manolis Giamniadakis told us of a current venture in to the Chinese market. Aggressive and un-traditional moves like this are surely an indication of their commitment to raising awareness of the Greek brand in more than the traditional markets. I eagerly await their next steps.

Moraitis Winery, The Island of Paros, Aegean Sea 


Moraitis Winery, Photo Arthur Lampros
 A family run operation of the finest order, the Moraitis winery has been making some of the most intriguingly beautiful wine in the country since 1910. Led by 3rd generation patriarch, Manolis Moraitis, the winery is supported by sons Theo and Savvas. This winery is exceptional in that it is situated in a dry and mostly arid island in the sun drenched Aegean Sea with absolutely no rainfall from May through the end of September. Most of the varietals and wines that the family produces are unique to the island, prompting me to question the purpose of even going there. I mean, the experience wouldn't exactly fit the central goal of highlighting the "main four” grapes. But I received my answer quickly and humbly; to miss out on such a treasure would certainly have been a shame. The star of the show, and I believe, the reason for our visit is their simply named, yet elegantly complex red, the Moraitis Reserve Red. A blend of the deep red Mandilaria and the aromatic white Monemvassia, the wine was co-fermented and aged for three years (two in French oak barrels, one in bottle) before release. During our tasting, Theo was kind enough to open a 1997 Reserve Red from his cellar, and we were treated to a wine that maintained its character, showed deep maturity, and plainly told us that it had the ability to go the distance.
Worth. Every. Minute.

Arthur Lampros

Friday, July 13, 2012

Julia Harding's 50 Great Portuguese Wines Revealed

 Julia Harding MW, assistant to Jancis Robinson and coauthor of the soon to be released "Wine Grapes" unveiled her 50 Great Portuguese Wines at a tasting in London last month.   A list after my own heart, one of her main criteria was that the grapes be only from native grapes, "My one main condition was that they had to be made exclusively from Portuguese grape varieties, with the honourable exceptions of Tinta Roriz (Spain's Tempranillo) and the French variety Alicante Bouschet, which seems to make better wine in Portugal than in France. They had to be well made and fulfill wine's first duty to the wine drinker: to give pleasure." Julia Harding MW

Here is a link to the full article on Jancis Robinson's site:
http://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/a201206123.html

Some of these posts are open to all and some are only for subscribers, so if you can't read the full article with Julia's wonderful descriptions, you can at least check out the list here at Sarah Ahmed's site:
 http://www.thewinedetective.co.uk/blog/featured/julia-harding-mw-goes-native-revealed-50-great-portuguese-wines-2012/

And also watch a nice video on the event here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=feMOvSDYhrM

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

Fear of a Greek Wine

Annals from the Greek Wine Wars

"There is no such thing as bad publicity except your own obituary."
Brendan Behan
Irish author & dramatist (1923 - 1964)
 For Better or worse, the Greek debt crisis and its implications for the Euro zone and the European and world economies, has pushed Greece on to center stage.  Not since the Athens Olympics has Greece been so topical.  Everyone looking for something to talk about, from columnists to talk show hosts, is talking about Greece.  Since tourism is such a critical part of the Greek economy, travel and by extension Greek cuisine and culture is a large part of the conversation.  

That's great news for Greek wine.  Heralded by Lynn Rosetta Kasper as "a bright spot" for Greece on NPR's The Splendid Table, this is a momentous opportunity for the wines of Greece to do three things.  One; shake off the obscurity of unknown grapes and regions and emerge cloaked in the adventure and allure of exploring new grapes and regions.   Two;   Shake off the type casting of Retsina and carafes of watered down cooperative Roditis and emerge with a glass of organically grown, estate bottled Roditis from the likes of Tetramythos or other like minded modern, quality conscious Greek wineries in hand.  Three;  Grab hold of the imagination of the 20 somethings and 30 somethings who are ten times more likely to have a lack of bad experiences with Old School Greek wines coupled with an abundant knowledge and keen interest in fringe wines.  Not only are young people a savvier bunch of wine consumers than their parent's generation, they have an unprecedented number of high quality wines to choose from, at much more affordable prices.  

Wine, at least good quality wine, used to be considered elitist because it tended to be out of the budget of the average American, certainly the average college student or young professional.  Remember the old adage Champagne tastes on a beer budget?  College kids drank what they could afford, and often it meant drinking Boone's Farm or Lancer's.  They drank it because it was cheap, not because they thought it was great.  (By the way, if you want to liberate yourself from the notion that Americans today have much elevated taste when it comes to wine, just take a peek in your neighbor's grocery cart next time you're waiting at the checkout.  You may see some cool bottles, but you are just as likely to see a 3 liter of something really depressing rolling around next to the 4 pack of Mike's Hard lemonade.)  

Greek wines suffer from stereotyping, no doubt, but I think its important to remember that stereotypes, however unfair they may end up being if they are attached blindly and without revaluation, do not emerge in a vacuum.    If for thirty years every unknowing tourist to step foot into a Taverna or off a boat in the Aegean is greeted with a glass of Retsina, and if growers hit the grapes with a hose to increase their weight on the scale and the price they fetch at the local coop...well you can see where that gets you.  But you can't erase the past, and you can't invalidate people's experiences.  They were there...they tasted it with their own tongues!  It is always better to meet people where they are.  And for some long time wine drinkers, when it comes to Greek wine, that place is fear.  

It's time to redefine Greek wine. 
Confession-I didn't try Retsina until I had been selling Greek wine for about three years.   One of my early bosses and mentors introduced Greek wines to me as the ancestors of the Italian wines I loved so much.  Many of the Italian varieties are descended from Greek varieties and after all the Greek's brought vines, grapes and wine making to much of the Ancient world.  That argument stuck with me, and to this day I use an Italian reference to explain the general style differences between the wines of the Peloponnese and the wines of Macedonia(Tuscany and Piedmont respectively.)   

I am not a Retsina Basher.  I just think that it is better to experience it last, after you have allowed yourself to experience many other styles of Greek wines.  To me, it is much closer in style to a Gin and tonic, a brisk and herbal, lemony pine aperitif with around 11% alcohol that will cut right through oily, garlicky fare.  If you go into it thinking Sauvignon Blanc, you are in for a nasty surprise.  My main point about Retsina is this...it is an INFUSED WINE.   One distinct style of Pine resin infused wine that has NOTHING TO DO WITH THE REST OF GREEK WINE.  Making a quality judgement of Greek wine based on Retsina is like saying Barolo is crap because you tasted Barolo Chinato (an intensely flavored digestivo beloved by Italians)  Just take a look at this Chinato offer from K and L Wine Merchants...filled with warnings and disclaimers, "Pronounced key-knot-o. To begin with, this specialized wine product will not appeal to every wine drinker out there. But for those of us with mature palates, and those who appreciate the natural flavoring agent that gives tonic water its distinctive bite (quinine), a glass of Cocchi's Barolo chinato is not a vinous experience you're likely to soon forget! In addition to quinine bark, rhubarb, gentian and a final addition of somewhat secreted spices, including cardamom seed, are added to this pleasantly bitter tipple, which ranks up there with Fernet Branca as the world's best digestivo."

A visiting Portuguese importer and winemaker were recently riffing/lamenting on the great job Italy has done with their PR image..."They have the best everything...the best food, the best wine, the best olive oil."  The Italians are great marketers, and no way are they leading with a product like Chinato the way the Greeks have led with Retsina.  I'm guessing many of you out there have never even heard of Chinato.  But when you do hear of it, they'll make sure you know that you have to have a "mature palate to appreciate" this special wine.  There is no entertaining that the wine is bad.  It is 'the world's best digestivo."  If you don't like it, you're just not ready for it.  So I'm going to take a page from the Italian PR hand book and tell you that if you don't have a "mature palate" (or love of digestivos) to leave Retsina alone for a while.  Who knows, you may get there...eventually.

The good news 

The  quality of Greek wines today is at an all time high.  Since joining the European Union, wineries have been able to invest in their wineries, modernize equipment and improve vineyard practices.  Cooperatives changed the way they compensate growers from weight of the grapes to sugar levels, which eliminated the unfortunate practice of watering down grapes and encourages growers instead to focus on properly ripening grapes to boost their return.  And as their domestic markets collapse, more and more wineries are focusing on the export market which will mean more and likely more affordable wines as they compete with each other for a piece of the pie. 

 

There seems to be a real top down phenomenon in Greek wine appreciation, the sommeliers and wine experts have been on board for a while now.  It's easier to find a quality, innovative bottle of Greek wine at a wine bar or wine focused restaurant than at a retailer.  A lot of retailers, unless they are going to have someone like myself or a winemaker on hand to present the wine, still have cold feet.

 

As Tara Q. Thomas said on the splendid table,  

"Greece is a sommellier's dream.  They're really high quality wines made from little known grapes and entirely unique Grapes and they're also made with food in mind.  So its something that the sommelliers can offer their customers that no other country offers.  And they tend to be great values as well."

 

Now what's so scary about that?