Shining a little sun on Greece...Twenty Three 90+ Scores for Greece from The Wine Advocate

"In sum, find your chair. Find your porch. Get a corkscrew. Sip the summer evening away. If every now and then, while tasting one of those crisp, transparent whites you begin to see deep blue seas, you’re not alone."

—Mark Squires

You can't say Mark Squires is not doing his part to help promote Greek wines.  His feature "Greece on the Cusp of Summer" is chock full of appreciation, knowledge and enthusiasm...not to mention some great recommendations and the all important 90+scores.  23 wines in all with 90+ratings here.  Would you believe me if I told you there was a Greek wine with a 96 from The Advocate?  Well there is.  The 1990 Vinsanto "20 Years Barrel Aged"  Here's just a little bit of the review...I guess there's a lot to say about a 96 point wine!

"The 1990 Vinsanto “20 Years Barrel Aged” (a blend of 80% Assyrtiko, 10% Aidani and 10% Athiri) is the new release, not a library wine. That’s not a typo. This winery is famed for its fanaticism with its late released, long-aged Vinsanto. If you are not familiar with the style, note that it is naturally sweet and unfortified. It comes in at 13.5% alcohol. With 20 years in barrel and 1 in bottle (their old method was 17 in barrel and 3 in bottle) and grapes sun dried for 12-14 days instead of just 8-10, it is a far, far different wine than the “4 year old” reviewed this issue: far darker in color, with more prominent acidity, a bigger rush of intense aromatics and a more intense grip on the finish, with a touch of tannin. There is a richer, darker flavor, more toffee and dark roast coffee than caramel. The laser beam bursts of acidity common to fine Vinsanto enliven this oldie perfectly, creating an invigorating counterpart to the complex aromatics, particularly after it gets a little air. Luscious, silky and intense, it is simply delicious."

The whites are the focus with Assyrtico from Santorini in the lead, but the reds are slowly winning over as well.  I particularly like the review and description of the Kir Yianni Ramnista here...and someone finally spelled Dionysos correctly!  The Ramnista is a single vineyard or "cru" from Naoussa that is really on a roll in our market right now-especially in restaurants.   I too find myself qualifying at tastings that this is not for fans of international style wines-but I think maybe I shouldn't worry as it has been knocking a lot of socks off despite it's "stern and steely" character.  And of course I love comparisons of Xinomavro with Nebbiolo (a little vindication now and then is always appreciated.)

"The 2008 Ramnista, a Xinomavro, is traditional and chock full of steel, tannin and acidity... It is a good example of the type of Xinomavro that I like to compare to old style Nebbiolo. It certainly requires the right type of food matchup. Indeed, I saved a bit of this as an experiment for a nice red sauce, pasta and meatballs dish – suddenly, it sang, the acidity and tannins absorbed or complemented...this seems to say “take it or leave it.” You decide. If it is in your style, it exceeds expectations in its price category and it should well reward cellaring, becoming more complex and coming together better over the next decade or so. Theoretically approachable, depending on your tolerance for tannins and rusticity, this will most certainly be better around 2015 or so. If you are a modern style wine drinker, with everything soft, sweet, fruity and approachable on release, this isn’t going to be your style of wine. Otherwise, at the anticipated shelf price, this stern and steely wine should be a nice, ageworthy bargain. Drink 2014-2027."  90 Points

Importers: VOS Selections, New York, N.Y.; tel. (212) 967-6948; Dionysos Imports, Manassas, Va; tel. (703) 392-7073.

Boutari Winery also recently garnered a couple of 90+ reviews, with a 91 point rating for it's 2008 Boutari Naoussa. "...Its hallmark is always refinement and balance. It is never a rustic Xinomavro, but at the same time it still preserves its essence and characteristics and expresses its terroir well as time goes on. Caressing in texture, yet increasingly powerful as it fleshes out in the glass to show good depth, it lingers on the palate and grips it. ...It drank beautifully the next day, showing that promised purity and transparency, seeming clean and unadorned. If you like Xinomavro—or Barbaresco--this is a fine overachiever that I liked more and more as it aired out. It is well worth seeking out. While approachable with some air, it is pretty tight. Drink 2013-2025" 

I predict there are some very happy winemakers in Greece right now.  It's nice someone is shining a little sun on them for a change.